Switzerland Summer 2022 Independent Watchmaker tour.

Part One:

Well covid and pretty much all of it’s restriction had finally been lifted, so a long over due visit was planned in May and I made the trek in July 2022, to Geneva to begin an 8 day Independent Watchmaker tour. I landed in the early evening on a Monday and headed straight to my favorite restaurant, L’Entrecote off the Rue du Rhone for what I can only say is a hedonistic experience. Simple pleasures for this Englishman! Having satiated myself on some of the finest Steak Frites, I retired to bed a happy fellow.

The following days were to be full on, touring initially Geneva and then on to the famed Vallé de Joux, followed by Fleurier, Le Locle, Les Brenets, La Chaux de Fonds, Sugiez, Bienne and back to Geneva. I was joined on this trip by my trusty Habring2 Doppel chronograph. Austria’s best independent watchmaking company that I’ve been the pleasure of being an AD since 2005 when I began representing them in the USA.

Heading to dinner in Geneva

DAY 1:

Tuesday morning up and off for a morning walk and breakfast prior to heading up to Old Town to hopefully find the elusive Rexhep Rexhepi in his workshop. As fortune would have it he was indeed there and recently back from Japan, he kindly agreed to meet me later in the day when he had some time to give me. What is a watch nerd to do in Geneva with 4 hours to kill? Initially I popped into the old cathedral in Old Town, St. Peter’s, for some restorative peace and quiet. Meditative time in a stunningly beautiful chapel energized me for a visit to the Patek Philippe museum, a 15 min walk across town in warm muggy air. The Patek Philippe museum was well worth the effort and I’d highly recommend it to anyone interested in the field of horology. It has to be up there with the finest collections of important pocketwatches and wristwatches anywhere worldwide. Set aside a good couple of hours at a minimum, in order to take it all in. You won’t be disappointed.

The Patek Philippe museum in Geneva, a must see for any horology enthusiast.

Leaving there with my head swimming with horology overload, I walked back to Old Town to meet up with Rexhep at our appointed time of 4.30pm. He greeted me with that comforting smile and we sat and chatted for 15mins prior to me getting to tour his two workshops.

Akrivia’s atelier in Old Town, Geneva

Rexhep by his bench.

There is a finishing and assembling atelier/space where the Akrivia “magic” happens, Rexhep’s bench together with the “Front Office” and client meeting room on the north side of the Grand Rue in Geneva. The south side, almost opposite is the workshop filled with machines for prototyping and manufacturing parts and specialist tools for the machines.

The finishing and assembly area of the atelier.

Our old friend the Schaublin 70 lathe

Akrivia is making it’s own cases too, having brought out of retirement, the seasoned expert Jean-Pierre Hagmann to show them the way. There were several machines I’d not seen in a watch workshop prior and the one for pulling metal wire through a screen to make it a smaller diameter, was interesting.

The metal pulling machine, typically found in goldsmith’s workshops rather than watchmaker’s!

Lathes, jig borers and milling machines found typically in well appointed ateliers were all there! A recent acquisition was a rather elegant straight line engine turning or guilloche machine by R. Gudel SA from Bienne. Prominently sitting near the front of the shop, Rexhep assured me he was going to master this additional watchmaking art too.

The (new to Rexhep) straight line guilloche machine

The RG crown just off the milling machine

I got to witness a colleague of his milling a rose gold crown while I was there. His small team of engineers was also housed in this building, working away on their computers in CAD programs on the next pieces. I wasn’t allowed to take pics in that room for obvious reasons. We finished up and then headed out back to my hotel across the river. The following day was to be busy, picking up the rental car at Geneva airport prior to driving up to the Vallé de Joux, was the initial task.

 

DAY 2:

Yours truly heading to airport, via the train, to grab rental car

Wednesday morning, I am up early and eager to get going to the Vallé de Joux. Renting a car at the airport seemed a good idea when I made the reservation, however I wasn’t about to drag my bags through Geneva by foot and then onto a train to the airport and walk to the car rental parking lot. So, after I made the trek up and had picked up the rental, I then proceeded to drive down through Geneva and it’s one way streets to the hotel to grab my bags. This proved much more tricky than I anticipated. I found myself rather quickly across the river having to drive through several “Pedestrian Only” streets in order to get back across the river to my hotel to grab the bags. After that experience, I realized why it is best to not drive into central Geneva if one can possibly avoid it! Once the bags were finally obtained, away I went heading north east for the town of Le Sentier to meet up with Romain Gauthier. A hour or so up in the Vallé de Joux. I took the route my Google maps suggested and it was a fabulous drive up narrow twisty hillside roads with lovely views.

As I headed down into the Vallé de Joux

Arriving into Le Sentier, I passed many venerable watch house manufactories. This really is where the “sausage is made” AP, JLC, Breguet to name a few, with many specialist makers in the watchmaking space located in this valley. I was eager to visit Romain’s manufacture, having met him originally in 2009 and began working with him soon after arriving in San Diego. His Logical One model was and still is for me, one of the top watches ever designed and made. Pure genius from an engineering and aesthetic standpoint. Ahead of its time, Romain tackled the issue of Constant Force with his interpretation of a system developed many moons ago and he improved it with his engineering mindset. When he showed this watch in Baselworld in 2013, I was immediately moved by it. Excitedly texting two great Independent Watchmaking enthusiast clients right after the meeting in Basel, I got their agreement to order them their platinum watches. His initial series offered were 20 pcs in platinum and 20 pcs in red gold. I know these 40 watches were probably not going to last the show without being sold out. It wasn’t like the crazy times we now find ourselves in, where a watch of this brilliance is sold out in a matter of minutes of it being announced. However, back then in 2013 I had that feeling that I was looking at a watch that would truly get collectors attention. I’m pretty sure the two chaps who now own those two watches are pretty thrilled to have had the opportunity to acquire them. It’s why I do what I do, and I derive enormous pleasure from connecting collectors with special pieces like this. Access to the top pieces is getting more tricky as many folks are finding out in the current market. Tiny quantities make for a sellers market and gaining access for collectors is the old story of who you know. I digress, back to the Vallé de Joux!

One of the 20 original LogicalOne models cased in platinum

Romain greeted me outside his atelier and we immediately dove straight in the tour of his manufacture. Impressive to say the least, he has created a watchmaking business that not only supplies his own Romain Gauthier watches with raw parts, but also is a specialist manufacture of parts for other watchmaking houses. Most traditional parts makers require big quantities of parts for orders, Romain saw a niche when he was doing his MBA, and took the opportunity to fill this missing part of the supply chain in Switzerland. The machines inside are all Computer controlled and require high degrees of skill to even program in order to create the precise parts required in the watchmaking world. The tolerances required have become so fine that unless a micron tolerance is available, parts are not able to be used. Romain and his team have these skills and machines with which to execute to the required tolerances. This is a highly desired ability and his workshop’s production is in demand!

We then headed upstairs to the assembly and finishing area. This is another space where “Horological magic or wizardry” occurs. The degree to which his team goes in terms of hand finishing, using traditional tools and techniques, is truly impressive. Gentiane wood is harvested in the autumn from the local fields for the final polishing of the anglage on his watches. Again many tools of the trade are on display in the Finissage space.

Raw Gentiane wood

Where I find the real magic happening is in a small room inhabited by three ladies carefully hand polishing the anglage on parts by hand using the Gentiane wood and fine polishing compounds for the final mirror finish. This room also contained the bench where the hand engraving on the various bridges and plates occurs. The engraver was out for lunch when I was there unfortunately! Many parts where sitting waiting for her or his skilled hands.

The engraving station

Parts for a “C by Romain Gauthier” awaiting hand engraving

A close up of the titanium crowns that receive hand engraved stipling

Bridges for an Insight MicroRotor model

Next I wandered into the next door room where the actual assembly and timing takes place. Here the watchmakers assemble a watch at a time, this is not production line assembly like one sees in the big brands!

I got to examine under a microscope the final Prestige HM model ever made, that since this trip, I have delivered to a very happy client.

The caliber of Romain’s last HM Prestige model, this model was his first offering to the watch world back in 2007

A LogicalOne caliber on the assembly bench,

An Insight Micro Rotor on test

Near to this workspace is a closed-off office, that houses the highly specialized work area of Romain’s brilliant wife, Ana. She is the enameller for Manufacture Romain Gauthier, whose work graces the dials of his watches. Being able to bring this artisanal skillset inhouse is a huge bonus and allows for amazing creativity within Romain’s watches. That his dear wife creates these is another cherry on the cake for me!

Ana’s bench

Raw powdered enamel and paints, plus parts needing her skilled hands.

Enamel dials that Ana Gauthier crafts.

As Romain had other guests visiting from the USA, we had to cut short our personal catch up & visit, however, I certainly got the “full court press” tour of the manufacture and my appreciation has risen again for Romain and his watches. I bid him farewell and headed into the center of the village of Le Sentier for a late lunch to ruminate on what I had just experienced. Satiated I then headed North East along the edge of the famous Lac de Joux, stopping to dip my toes in, as the 85’F/30’C temperature had me feeling like taking it easy and not rushing too much. I had a couple of hours to kill before I wanted to arrive at my Bed & Breakfast spot in the village of Lignerolle. I had found on google maps what looked like an interesting old village tucked away with a 1500 year old Abbey. Romainmôtier didn’t disappoint and I got to spend 30 mins exploring the village and enjoying the old Abbey and it’s cooler interior! Well worth the trek!

Heading north east along the edge of Lac de Joux

Inside the abbey at Romainmôtier, a blessing to enjoy the cool temperature.

Outside the very old church

My B&B for the evening was charming and the hosts kindly asked if I wanted to join their family and the other two guests, for dinner in a seasonal family owned, traditional Swiss restaurant. The restaurant was situated up the mountain at around 1000m elevation above the B&B. I happily agreed and spent a wonderful hour dining on cheese fondue listening to the cowbells jangling as we sat outdoors on a lovely Swiss summer’s evening.

The Fondu restaurant I was kindly taken to.

Still light for my after dinner stroll in the village at 9.41pm according to the trusty Habring2 Doppel Chrono

DAY 3:

Day 3-Heading to Kari’s new manufacture from Geneva.

Away at 9am sharp to drive to Fleurier for my meeting with Kari at his new atelier location up on the Chapeau de Napoléon, above Fleurier, in the old restaurant building. The drive over the Jura was again fabulous and seeing this part of Switzerland is always eye opening. Arriving at 10am, I was greeted by Kari and we went into the atelier right away to see the set up. This was truly impressive and quite an upgrade form his former atelier in Motiers.

The view is epic from up at the atelier.

The various Rose and Straight Line engines or Guilloche machines

The various workshops were arranged on three different levels. The first workshop he showed me had the amazing set up of both the rose engine and straight line engine guilloche machines spaced out with plenty of natural daylight. This is where the magic of the Voutilainen dials takes place under the supervision of Kari. However these artisan masters of the guilloche machines are trained to the level required and given the time to do their work. The results speak for themselves!

A straight line machine.

The results, this one had blue transparent enamel over the hand done guilloche!

The engineering aspect of Haute Horlogerie

Vingt-8 caliber running

Partially assembled and partially hand finished Vingt-8 calibers

This is the new caliber Kari had been working on for the future. Unfinished, it was still quite elegant.

Moving on upstairs we then went into the workshops where the fine hand finishing is done and the benches are again facing out over the valley. This is the place for me where some of the real magic takes place in transforming these bridges, cocks and mainplates, into the highly decorated and very well finished parts that get assembled into the Vingt-8 caliber. Dial guilloche is done by hand the traditional way. Black polishing of parts is done here also with the classic tin plates for the flat parts with the very fine polishing compounds that are required.

Quite the view from up here!

Exquisite work, the back side of the 20th Anniversary model!

One aspect that I wasn’t familiar with until talking to another artisanal independent watchmaker, was the fact that the in the atmosphere or environment when one is black polishing is key to whether or not the steel will take an actual black polish. There are times when the atmosphere is just not right, maybe it’s too much moisture, maybe it’s too dry. I’m not sure what it is, but the watchmaker I spoke to up in Le Locle knows this to be true and some days it’s just not black polishing days! We then went into one of the corner offices/showroom, where Kari produced a couple of watches that he had available to show. One was the 20th anniversary piece with a central seconds an incredible guilloche dial, the other piece was a Vingt-8 that had come back to him for some adaptations because the second owner who had recently acquired it, wanted to change a couple of parts on the watch. To me that watch was almost perfect as it is, however it’s not my watch so not my choice. One of the great aspects of working with the artisan independent watchmaker like Kari, is that you have the ability, if they’re willing and they usually are, to customize or maybe slightly change an aspect of the watch after the fact. You do not get this with the big brands and again another reason why I find these Watchmaker’s compelling to work with.

20th Anniversary model with central running seconds

The brilliant Vingt-8 Inverse in Ti

This is the piece that came back to Kari for a little retrofit. Stunning as is IMO!

The acknowledgment from the MIH is fitting.

We then wrapped up the visit up at Chapeau de Napoléon and thanked the watchmakers who were kind enough to show me what they were doing and how, then we drove down the hill into Fleurier to the dial factory. As many people are aware of, Kari bought the Comblémine dial factory and this is where he is able to create all these amazing colors in the galvanic process. This factory was on the verge of going under when he acquired it and now it is a area full of activity supplying many other Watch companies and individual artisan watchmaker’s with spectacular dials.

Kari checking out a CNC lathe machine.

Galvanic baths at Comblémine

There’s room for expansion and knowing Kari and his business acumen I see this as a benefit for him and many other people in the watch business. In the meantime there are a couple of Kari’s lovely old English cars that reside on the ground floor which I was thrilled to see. Being cognizant of time and the fact that Kari had kindly spent already almost 2 hours with me, I invited him to lunch if he had the time to do that. He happily agreed as long as it wasn’t a big drawn out lunch! We found a local café in Fleurier, a favorite of his and enjoyed another 45 minutes of fellowship and chitchatting about family, friends, a little of the business but mostly not and it was a lovely moment of communication and friendship that I highly value. We sat outside and enjoyed salads and some sparkling water in the unusually warm June weather for Switzerland. After lunch we bid each other farewell and I was off on my next drive. As I headed out of Fleurier, I stopped to snap a couple of pictures of the spectacular site of the new atelier up on Chapeau de Napoléon and to just take in the wonderful environment that these guys live and work in.

The Manufacture way up on the hill, that used to be a restaurant prior to Kari’s acquisition.

What a fabulous place to work with the views from up there, being spectacular!

Leaving Fleurier, I headed towards Le Locle to meet my next watchmaker, the extremely talented Raúl Pagès. Raúl & I first met at Baselword in 2017, when he was admitted into the AHCI. He had debuted his first wristwatch in 2016, under the Pagès brand name, the Soberly Onyx. The watch was made in an edition of 10 pieces in 18K rose gold and 10 pieces in 18K WG. This was a classic time only watch with a lovely hand finished manual wind caliber based on a Cyma caliber and as the name would suggest, a black onyx dial. A clean looking watch that showcased Raúl’s watchmaking skills and design language. The other item he had with him at Baselworld back then, was his amazing mechanical tortoise “Tortue” with an automaton watchlike movement that propels it across a desk with lifelike motion of the four legs! “This guy has serious horological skills” was what filled my thoughts back then. Getting to meet Raúl in his atelier was dream come true since his announcement of the Régulateur à détente RP1. I was eager to see where this horological maestro conducted his work!

Clock tower in Les Brenets

The WG Soberly Onyx prototype.

I arrived in Les Brenets around 2pm and found the downstairs atelier of Raúl in what turns out to be an old building that used to house a small but important watch parts factory. Raúl showed me round the workshop and “dirty room” where some of the not so glamorous watchmaking aspects occur. Polishing & cleaning of parts to name a few operations.

Watchmaking lathe

Familiar tools of the trade

An old Hauser jig borer

Several parts still to be finished of the new caliber.

I was then sat down and Raúl brought out the piece I’d been waiting to see. It was fantastic and as is typically the case, far superior in person than pictures on my computer screen had me believe. The dial color works so much better in reality and when Raúl described the process of how he picked it, I understood why.

The Régulateur à détente RP1

The caliber was superb and lovingly hand finished by Raúl. The really exciting part, the Spring Detent escapement, is in reality quite small and magnification is required to appreciate it to the fullest. Also, a slow motion video is helpful too! However, what a feat of micro-mechanical horological engineering Raúl has executed.

A drawing to show the parts in close up detail, quite helpful!

Pure artisanal horology.

The lucky few who are getting one of these gems will in my estimation, be thrilled with the final product and I suspect enjoy years of enormous pleasure owning such a rare and special watch from a lovely and extremely talented guy. Supporting these types of artisanal independent watchmakers is a noble gesture on the collectors part and a reminder of why I do this.

The lovingly hand finished caliber of the Soberly Onyx

I headed out around 3.45pm after getting to admire the prototype WG Soberly Onyx again, which still stands the test of time, a lovely watch!

I drove in back into Le Locle and found the watch museum up on the south facing side of the valley, where I had been taken by Ulysse Nardin on a trip in the early 2000’s when I had represented that brand. It was an interesting museum of horology and I found it a useful distraction to see lots of old clocks and some history of the watch industry. A reminder of why the “industry” part of the watch business holds little interest to me any more now that I work with artisanal independent watchmakers, whose passion and dedication to their art form is of prime importance and where I find compelling horological art.

Museum of Horology in Le Locle, housed in the Chateau des Mont

I then drove south towards Neuchâtel to meet up with an old friend, Stephen McGonigle where I was staying for a couple of days. I was kindly offered a bed at his home, from which to base my day trips to watchmakers. His home also now has his workbench and workshop downstairs, this commute is enviable ;-) We spent a fun evening catching up, discussing much about the current state of the independent watch world and rugby. Talking about rugby, Stephen’s new Magon Fórsa chronograph in Grade 5 Titanium was much better in person and I certainly appreciate the time and effort that went into creating this unusual piece. The dial is amazing and the habillage, the fit and finish of the case & doubly curved crystal is superb. I see it’s appeal. Visiting in person, I can see why Stephen & Cathriona picked this lovely place to live, the views are spectacular and working from home in a place like this must help the creative juices flow.

Another Swiss lake with the Alps in the far distance. The view from outside Stephen McGonigle’s atelier.

DAY 4:

The following morning, I was away back to Le Locle, to meet up with Torsti Laine at his atelier in the middle of town. Fortunately I found a parking spot within 50m of his address, and was greeted by a relaxed looking Torsti.

The very warm weather meant shorts in these old un-airconditioned buildings!

He smiled and showed me the way in to the workshop. An old apartment building, his workshop/atelier was on the ground floor, which helped when having to move in heavy machines, like the CNC and milling machines he has. I think I remember him saying they removed a big window in order to get them inside.

Torsti’s CNC machine, that speeds up the production of precision parts.

Parts from the machine, the escape wheel cocks in raw state.

Dial parts

The atelier is comprised of several small rooms off a large central workspace, where the majority of the assembly and hand finishing is done, together with the two watch benches.

Laine’s atelier

Familiar tools, machines and lathes were present that one finds in these artisanal independent watchmaker places of creativity. The room off to the side where black polishing is done, was quite small and Torsti mentioned that his wife is now becoming quite adept in the art of black polishing the flat components found in some of his calibers. Again, a theme found with these watchmakers, it is often a family affair at heart, with spouses working alongside or collaborating with the watchmaker.

Hand finishing takes place here under a microscope.

The black polishing work bench.

Black polished escape wheel cock on jig

It was fun to see a piece for a client being finished up and tested prior to being sent over the California.

Our old friend, the Schaublin 70 lathe.

A Gelidus Guilloche in final assembly on the bench, bound for CA

Application of perlage.

Bridges in semi-finished state

Close up of the Gelidus or Frosted dial. Gelidus is a latin word for Frosty

The galvanic station for his dials and parts

The guilloche is done in Le Locle by a specialist, the dials are then colored by Torsti galvanically.

After almost an hour, having seen his galvanic treating station for the dials with various chemicals that Torsti has taught himself to produce the various colors for the lovely guilloche or frosted dials, we wandered down the street to sit outside and enjoy a light lunch. Afterwards I bade him farewell and headed south west to find the atelier of a more recent friend, also brilliant, Sylvain Pinaud. A French watchmaker based in Sainte Croix nearby my longtime and dear friend, Vianney Halter.

The drive took me through mountain passes in the Jura, and I have to say this part of Switzerland certainly has a charm to it. Not as spectacular as the Alps, but very pretty nonetheless. I saw plenty of Gentiane plants with their lovely yellow flowers in the fields amongst the cows and their bells. I managed to find a lovely bench to sit on just outside Les Verrières, where I could enjoy 30minutes of meditative peace and quiet.

Les Verrières in the background.

I arrived at Sylvain’s atelier around 3.30pm and I was warmly greeted by his big smile and escorted into the workshop. My initial thoughts, were “wow, this is a much bigger operation than I had expected” An old motorcycle was also residing in there too. Sylvain’s project of passion.

Old pinion machine.

I was amused to see an old working pinion machine that Sylvain had restored and was prominently in a position or rather in pole position in his workshop. Lots of the usual machines that I find in artisanal independent watchmaker’s workshops were to be seen. The Schaublin lathes and various tools adapted for his specialist finishings. Milling machines, jig borers and several lathes. Sylvain also employees a couple of colleagues to help him create his magic.

His motorcycle against the wall!

I didn’t realize that Sylvain had established his atelier in Sainte Croix almost 10 years ago. He has been working in the background for many other Watchmaker’s and honed his skills here. Restoring old watches, clocks and pocketwatches is for me a highly important aspect of one’s horological education. Seeing and handling old calibers reveals much for a watchmaker to learn about in terms of understanding metals and design. Seeing how pieces wear over time serves to provide a watchmaker with the knowledge when designing his or her own caliber. Without this experience, I believe watchmakers have a missing aspect to their required knowledge base.

One thing he is highly skilled at is automatons, which are known to be created in the village of Sainte Croix. I was fascinated to find out that Sylvain was one of the experts in this narrow field. He showed me a very expensive and special watch from one of the big brands, which I’m not at liberty to share however, it certainly showed his expertise and he was one of the prototype watchmaker’s to work on this piece. An acoustical automaton wristwatch.

I was eager to see his new watch, Origine, which he happily showed as a prototype and then a serial production movement that will be found in the watches that go on peoples wrists.

The Origine prototype

The serial production caliber

The movement in the prototype will be changed a little bit particularly on the back to make it more of what Sylvain wants collectors to see . The finishing on the balance wheel bridge is beautifully black polished and anglage around the movement front and back with a wonderful 3-D feel and look from the front of the watch. As is pretty much guaranteed the pictures did not do this watch justice or anywhere close. It’s superb.

I rather like the old watchmaking book behind regarding Regulation & Precision in watchmaking!

Superb anglage

Excellent black polishing of the gold balance wheel bridge

I was able to spend some time with a prototype and really really enjoyed it.

The first time I met Sylvain was in Basel several years prior where he debuted his amazing mono pusher co-axial chronograph. I found that watch remarkable back then and as a prototype, and now seeing an updated version with a larger opening on the back to reveal the balance wheel, I was again enamoured with this watch. The column wheel with it’s cam and springs up front, make for a visual feast.

The larger window to the balance wheel.

As is often the case with these creative watchmaker’s, I was excited to see a small desk clock on Sylvain’s desk. I asked him about it and he commented that it was a creation of his that featured a Remontoire d’Egalité, a constant force mechanism he designed to improve its timekeeping. It was beautiful and the mechanism of his design operates once every 2 1/2 seconds with a mechanical click and motion that is easily seen with the naked eye. The benefits of a larger size than a wrist watch! I could see this piece sitting on various client’s office desks or home office desks, key wound with a balance wheel up top there is plenty of visual stimulation.

Sylvain’s clock.

We then enjoyed a time of reflection on the watch industry and the independent world that Sylvain now finds himself in. One of his mentors is none other than a dear friend of mine, Vianney Halter. Vianney occupies a temporary office about two minutes walk from Sylvain and his atelier. We had to set up a dinner with Vianney prior to my meeting and I was excited to catch up with my good friend again.

Two watchmakers and I.

We both headed over to Vianney‘s atelier at about 4:45pm to go meet him and see what he’s been up to since I last visited Sainte Croix. The new workshop is well appointed and at the same time full of Vianney‘s collectibles. There is even a whole separate room where much of his clocks, airplane and car parts stored. While I was waiting to see Vianney, I was looking around and came across what I thought was a pretty extraordinary piece of equipment once it was explained to me what it was and how it worked. It was a mechanical operated mirror that a Watchmaker or someone needing light inside the house would use to brighten and concentrate the suns rays inside a room by utilizing the known passage & speed of of the sun, a mirror on an arm together with a mechanical clockworks, that could operate for the duration needed and move this arm as the sun moves across the sky. Bringing the bright sunshine with the use of the mirror into the room as required. I had no idea such a machine even existed. Obviously these were utilized before the invention of electrical lights and the requirement for very bright sunshine light is what spurred on the invention of such a machine. That Vianney owns one is not a surprise!

This brass item in the middle of the picture is the mechanically operated mirror that would follow the sun across the sky to provide bright light inside a room, before the advent of electricity.

Vianney’s test of concept model from 2007, of his mechanical Resonance theory for balance wheels

When Vianney was able to come and say hello he showed me around the finishing workshop with several benches and a couple of colleagues who are working with him on the Deep Space Tourbillon Resonance project. I didn’t realize that the original concept for the resonance of Vianney‘s design was begun back in 2007! He has a model with two going trains to show how his concept of resonance works, it’s a different system than what at his friend, Francois-Paul Journe uses or anybody else for that matter. It is using the sound or energy waves of each balance’s oscillation to achieve mechanical resonance through the transfer of waves through the shared metal of the cages in the case of the Tourbillon. The energy waves cause the oscillating organs ( the 2 balance wheels) to go into resonance. This system unlike FPJ’s is not dependent on molecules of air. The Resonance of FPJ’s design will not work in a vacuum. Vianney’s design does. I was told he was working on another Resonance project for a future watch. Excited to see what this will be!

The DST

His first watch that features the resonance mechanism, the prototype Deep Space Tourbillon Rresonance, which is a triple axis tourbillon, is an extraordinary piece of micro mechanical engineering at the highest level. It was such an honor to be able to handle this peace and have a chance to take as many photographs as I did. In motion it is purely mesmerizing.

The Deep Space Tourbillon Resonance prototype

Here one can clearly see the two balance wheels either side of the central toothed wheel. Note the black polish on the pillars within the Tourbillon carriage.

One of the great things about visiting Vianney is what one might see on his workbench and I was treated to a rose gold Trio that was in for servicing. Getting to see the movement outside of the case reminded me of just what a brilliant watchmaker I was in presence of.

The Trio Caliber

The Trio case

After about 45 minutes of pure horological joy, we retired to the office next to the workshop for a glass of wine to celebrate the end of the week. It being Friday afternoon, it was time to relax finally from the busy work week. We shared and caught up on family matters and business in general.

On the wall in Vianney’s office…a good reminder for all.

When it was time to wrap up we then headed out to dinner at a local restaurant up the hill in Sainte Croix, Cafe de la Gittaz. I was treated to a very special evening with Sylvain, Vianney and his partner Laurence. We sat outside at this Alpine restaurant and ate our hearts out.

A great fun evening and one I will remember for a long time. Being sensible as I had almost an hours drive back to Stephen McGonigle‘s home, I had to curtail the evening. I arrived back at Stephen’s home after 11pm and slipped into bed quite tired after a long and thoroughly enjoyable day/evening. The following day, was a day off for me, so it was spent with Stephen & Cathriona relaxing and getting to swim in the local lake that was refreshing. Dinner was a delicious home BBQ.

Day 5:

The following day, Sunday I headed off after brunch to meet up with another genius watchmaker, Thomas Prescher and his lovely family. It was an hour’s drive over to Twann, where I’ve had the pleasure of meeting and staying with Thomas previously. I arrived mid afternoon and after settling in, Thomas & I took a walk around the neighborhood, through fields and down to the Lake. Lake Biel is quite close by and the beach was packed with kids swimming. It had been several years with Covid intervening, so it was really good to reconnect with Thomas. We spent an enjoyable evening catching up on life, liberty and the pursuit of happiness. Quite the philosopher, Thomas is never shy of saying what he thinks, which usually provokes great conversations that I thoroughly enjoy. His watchmaking is narrowing down to fewer, but more complex projects. His family is his life and where he focuses much of his energy.

The following morning, after breakfast, I said my goodbyes to the Prescher family and headed back west towards Geneva for my final night in Switzerland. I had pinged Peter Speake prior to my trip and was keen to meet up with the fellow who I had became the initial AD for way back in 2003, now over 20 years ago. Our paths were closely interconnected back then for a number of years as he began his prodigious career as a young Independent Watchmaker creating his horological art. We were both on the cutting edge back then and we were both quite naive as to the watch business and this tiny niche world of the artisan Independent watchmaker. However, we persevered in our paths and I’m honored to call Peter a friend. His early work was seminal in my career and has provided clarity and inspiration ever since. The original 38mm cased Piccadilly is one of my personal favourite watches and the classic styling and superb execution, will stand the test of time.

My thanks go out to all these very busy watchmakers for making time for me to visit and gain further understanding and appreciation of the art of micro-mechanical horology.

Cheers,

Tim

Struthers Watchmakers: A visit and insight into their compelling world in Birmingham, U.K.

Early Monday Sept. 30th morning I headed across London to get to Euston Station in order to make the 2hr trip up to Birmingham New Street station from where I was to take the short taxi ride to the Struther’s workshop. Transport via train in the U.K. is not the same as Switzerland! The train was delayed about 20mins, but eventually it departed for Birmingham. I was eager to see what this obviously talented couple had been up to in person, having followed them via social media for a couple of years. Intrigued by these English Independent Watchmakers, doing what I so wish more would recognize as tremendously difficult and requiring huge sacrifices, I tried to imagine where they worked and why they chose the Jewellery Quarter in Birmingham…

The “named” tools for watchmaking the old school way.

The “named” tools for watchmaking the old school way.

I arrived into New Street around 11.45am and grabbed taxi to their address, which is within the Deakin & Francis building, 15-17 Regent Place, Birmingham. As a side note Deakin & Francis Est. 1786 are makers of excellent cufflinks, signet rings and other items ladies & gentlemen aspire to have! There is a connection, I assure you and as you read on, it will become more clear. I was buzzed into the building and met by Craig who took me up to their new digs in the Deakin & Francis building on the second floor. Upon entering I was greeted by Dr. Struthers, otherwise known as Rebecca, the other half of Struthers Watchmakers and a bank of watchmaking tools, lathes and drills on the right hand side, while their two benches face each other on the left.

Dr. Rebecca Struthers & Craig Struthers at the bench.

Dr. Rebecca Struthers & Craig Struthers at the bench.

I was also introduced to Heather their current watchmaker apprentice, who is learning the ropes of the practical side of a watchmaker in the trenches. Heather is in her final year of a Horology Bachelors Degree at the local university, and will gain invaluable experience and training on vintage watch service and restoration. Her bench had a couple of early English pocketwatch movements with a case and an American pocket watch caliber, that she was working on. Great to see the torch being passed on by Craig & Rebecca, and an important aspect of their business seems to be education, which I find admirable.

Heather’s bench against the far wall.

Heather’s bench against the far wall.

Heather’s bench

Heather’s bench

As is my way, upon entering a watchmaker’s workshop/atelier, my camera or in this case iPhone camera emerges and I want to start snapping pics of everything I’m shown. It’s probably rather annoying to experience from the watchmaker standpoint as they begin to show me their world. I love it and am compelled to share this amazing micro-mechanical art form, so too bad watchmakers! However, before I was set free to snap away, Rebecca & Craig whisked me away downstairs to meet James from Deakin & Francis, who kindly gave me the personal tour of their business workshops that have been here since 1786! They are a complete manufacturing jeweller, and make it all right here below the Struthers little workshop.

Various presses on the left with shelves on the right containing hundreds if not thousands of original steel dies.

Various presses on the left with shelves on the right containing hundreds if not thousands of original steel dies.

From enameling to stone setting to hand engraving, it all takes place under one roof, where their master crafts men & women work their magic with precious metals, gemstones and enamel. I was shown their original die striking mechanisms that were belt driven at the basement, no longer needed due to modern presses that use the original dies to create stunning pieces still to this day. Shelf upon shelf of original hand carved dies are available to Deakin & Francis, which gives them a deep catalog with which to operate.

Original belt driven die striking machines at Deakin & Francis.

Original belt driven die striking machines at Deakin & Francis.

I was enamored again by their manufacturing capability, and especially when I was shown into the enameling workshop, where two ladies were creating their form of jewellery magic, that of the enameler.

Silver cufflinks waiting to go into the enamelling oven

Silver cufflinks waiting to go into the enamelling oven

What emerges, vitreous enamel!

What emerges, vitreous enamel!

It is art and science, as the mixture of paint and powder together with the correct temperature in the little ovens all have to be in sync for the enamel to emerge with the right color and translucency. There aren’t many companies doing this type of work anymore, and as I said previously, it does tie in with what Rebecca & Craig are up to. The skills downstairs at D&F are a resource that the Struthers realized could be put to perfect use in a wristwatch dial that they envisioned.

Thanking James for the tour, we climbed up the creaky stairs back to the Struthers workshop, and I delved further into the Struthers watchmaking world. There is much written and photographed on their website, http://www.strutherswatchmakers.co.uk/ suffice to say I will endeavor to give you a sense of why they do what they do.

Various parts for future watches and several pieces in the service process.

Various parts for future watches and several pieces in the service process.

Dr. Rebecca Struthers is an antiquarian horologist of note and I believe the first watchmaker ever to receive a PhD in horology! A tremendous accomplishment and one that is very much worth celebrating. One could also say a total student of watchmaking and about as fully qualified as anyone I’d want working on, restoring or creating a watch. A total watch nerd in the best sense! Rebecca is keen to share this knowledge and pass on to those interested in Horology, with her impressive accumulation of horological encyclopedic data, she also has an expansive practical angle that many historians of horology don’t have. The letters after her name are too numerous to list, suffice to say there isn’t much about watchmaking Rebecca doesn’t know, and if she doesn’t, she certainly knows where to find the answer! No wonder she is a highly awarded

A vintage Louis Audemars Quarter Repeater coming to life as a Struthers wristwatch, restored and parts replaced, almost certainly as good if not better than 100+ years ago.

A vintage Louis Audemars Quarter Repeater coming to life as a Struthers wristwatch, restored and parts replaced, almost certainly as good if not better than 100+ years ago.

Brand new gongs, sourced from a Swiss master, who agreed to make them for an intermediary, rather famous Independent Watchmaker based in Geneva. It’s who you know after all…

Brand new gongs, sourced from a Swiss master, who agreed to make them for an intermediary, rather famous Independent Watchmaker based in Geneva. It’s who you know after all…

parts for the Quarter Repeater

parts for the Quarter Repeater

Craig Struthers is also a Master Watchmaker and has an impressive resume of restoration projects over the years since discovering Watchmaking back in 2004. Having the knack for tinkering and patience, two much needed attributes required for the careful restoration of old timepieces, Craig also continued his academics and was awarded a MA in Art & Design as recently as 2014. His hand drawings of their next project, code named “Project 248” found within a sketch book, with a few loose sheets within, are stunning and reveal to me a deep artistic bent to Craig’s work. It’s one thing to envision parts or general designs, it is another to take those ideas and put them into 2D by hand. This record of the Project 248 is really important and shows to those interested, the depth to which these two have conceived and designed “their baby” so to speak.

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The Project 248 is really exciting to hear about as it is English Independent Watchmaking done right. Artisanally hand crafted by Rebecca & Craig together with a select few local artisans aiding in aspects they can’t do, for example the enamel dials, these will not be on every street corner or in Jewelry/Watch boutiques for the well heeled to acquire. Tiny quantities will be made, initially 5 made in series and then they will see. Four are spoken for at the time of writing! They showed me a couple of Proto movement parts, the main plate and barrel bridge, which give a good sense of the style and essence of the 248 caliber. They also have an old English pocket watch that gave them the inspiration for the caliber design. Utilizing the original English lever escapement design and using a beat rate of 16,200vph or 4.5Hertz, will be unlike any modern wristwatch being made today. As they say, the best of what they perceive to be from their ideal watches from the past all rolled into one. Hand engraved bridge with screwed gold chatons and a pillar style construction of German Silver, one of the traditional materials used by watchmakers for a couple of centuries, due to its hardness and beauty.

The prototype main plate with beautifully hand engraved main bridge and barrel bridge with name and address proudly engraved, 15-17 Regent Place, B’Ham.

The prototype main plate with beautifully hand engraved main bridge and barrel bridge with name and address proudly engraved, 15-17 Regent Place, B’Ham.

Here’s some excerpts from the Project 248 book.

Here’s some excerpts from the Project 248 book.

Another page of watch caliber design how to from Craig!

Another page of watch caliber design how to from Craig!

One can see the inspiration from an old pocket watch caliber above with classic English guilt finishing

One can see the inspiration from an old pocket watch caliber above with classic English guilt finishing

The watches currently being offered, are elegant, classical and are made to last several lifetimes. They utilize a variety of old calibers depending upon the model, with extensive upgrades, hand finishing with hand-engraving often completing the movement. The Kingsley model for example uses a 1950’s Omega caliber as a base, which is then transformed into the superb hand finished caliber that then bear the Struthers name. Prior to their own caliber, this is the only way they felt they could make watches under their name that exhibited the quality they require.

the recommissioned & reworked, hand finished and engraved vintage Omega caliber from the 1950’s fro a Kingsley.

the recommissioned & reworked, hand finished and engraved vintage Omega caliber from the 1950’s fro a Kingsley.

Partially completed classically made hinged case back or officers case in 18K WG for a Kingsley model.Not: the rivet in the hinge isn’t finished here!

Partially completed classically made hinged case back or officers case in 18K WG for a Kingsley model.

Not: the rivet in the hinge isn’t finished here!

They use other artisan craftsmen with skill sets that they do not possess for the watchmaking or goldsmithing aspects of the watches they aren’t trained in, for example the hand engraving and enameling of their dials. Here the good folks downstairs at D&F, have lent a hand in the incredible enamel dials I was excited to see. These rather classical so called “sector dials” are made in a way I don’t think others are.

Black enamel on sterling silver sector dial, brilliant!

Black enamel on sterling silver sector dial, brilliant!

I could be wrong, but to my knowledge, no other enamel dials are created where the numerals, sectors and railroad track are raised from the base in sterling silver, I suspect die struck which would allow for this, and then the enamel is applied. After firing the finer seconds track and text are printed on the dial, which gives it some slight relief. Amazing to see these dials in person and they will be revealing the finished product known as the Kingsley Deakin & Francis Edition, owing to its enamel dial, in late November. I’d love to be there in London at the D&F shop on the 28th, alas it’s Thanksgiving and as I was absent last year, my family might not forgive me!

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As I got to look around their workshop, taking pictures voraciously, I noticed that there watchmaking machines were named! I love this, reminds me of some family friends who I grew up with, whose cars had names. These then become that much more personal and greater connection to each machine is maintained. This is old school workmanship, and I for one think it is worth supporting.

An indexed gear cutting program wheel for a lathe, named Helga from memory!

An indexed gear cutting program wheel for a lathe, named Helga from memory!

Albert, the precision drill or maybe a jig borer?

Albert, the precision drill or maybe a jig borer?

Why work with folks like Rebecca and Craig? Well, I tell you why, because if you want a hand made watch created by two truly brilliant artisan watchmakers, whose blood, sweat & tears are in each and every piece they make, then you can not find a much better outfit. They don’t use CNC or even CAD as yet, although their apprentice Heather has some training and expertise in CAD, and each piece comes with a “history of hand drawn illustrations and photographs” for the future owner. Commissioning a bespoke Struthers watch is a journey, where the buyer will gain huge insight into the hand made watchmaking process and design processes. You will also truly understand why Craig & Rebecca do what they do...it’s highly compelling!

I left after grabbing lunch at a local pub, where we discussed many things, much of it not related to watchmaking, and I gained more insight into the brilliance of the husband & wife team of artisan Independent Watchmakers known as the Struthers. In closing I’d like to thank Rebecca & Craig:

Thank you for the kind and generous time you showed me during a “work day” and I will be following your work very closely, with the hope that one day in the not too distant future, I can repay the kindness and have an exhibition of the Struthers Watchmakers in Solana Beach.

Cheers,

Tim

K M Independent creates his micro-mechanical horological art in Sisters, Oregon.

As fortune would have it, I had to deliver a rather lovely watch to a client in Portland late December 2014, so I had my excuse to make to trek to central Oregon and visit my friend Keaton. Having first met him in Basel in 2012, and again in January 2014 when he visited Solana Beach to deliver the first two 1 in 30 pieces, I had yearned to visit his place of work. As many of you know, I love to visit watchmaker workshops and see where these amazing folk create their art form. One can glean aspects of their world, that often make more sense, when taken in context of where they work.

Heading into Sisters, OR.



Keaton is doing something extra-ordinary in central Oregon, making his own watches without the benefit of the nearby watchmaking infrastructure, that exists in Switzerland and Saxony, Germany. His schooling and initial training was in Pennsylvania, after which he returned home to his native Oregon to restore watches and pocketwatches, whilst beginning the ideas and design of his first serial production model, the 1 in 30. Starting with the most important part of a watch, the time keeping regulator, the balance wheel, he created his own from scratch. That in and of itself is to my understanding, not an easy thing to do, and takes full comprehension and understanding of the watchmakers art form. So from this starting point, the remainder of the watch came into existence, and this is what prompted me to commit to the first one, even before I met Keaton and saw his prototype in person in Basel in 2012. The production watch is slightly different cosmetically on the dial side, and he improved his click system for the main barrel. I preferred 18K RG for the name plate and watch serial number plates over the 18K YG parts of the proto. His balance bridge is reminiscent of a tourbillon bridge from a vintage pocketwatch. Being expertly hand polished, it shows off his freesprung balance wheel with it's 18K adjusting weights.

Keaton’s image of his balance bridge!

An image from Keaton of his own proto piece showing the balance wheel with gold weights.

My balance bridge in my watch.

My watch.

I arrived in Bend, Oregon on Sunday evening after driving through a snow storm and frozen roads. Keaton greeted me with a smile and warmly invited me in to his humble abode. Middle of the main-living room was a cabinet full of horological items ranging from clocks from vintage planes to tools used in watchmaking. I knew I was in for a treat the following day! We dropped my bag and headed out to dinner. Bend has some quite good restaurants I hear and the one Keaton took me to in the downtown area, old town, was excellent. We returned to his home, and proceeded to chat about watches, the business and then got into a couple of amazing books, one about A. Lange & Sohne, which had stunning photos of historical watches going back to the mid 1850's. As a fan of Saxon watchmaking, this was quite a treat! The following morning I awoke to 2 inches of fresh snow. A first for me in over 6 years. There is no snow in Solana Beach. Lake Tahoe back in 2008 or 2009, was the last time I had been in a snowy environment!

We headed out at around 8.30am to drive to Sisters, about 30mins drive in the snow, where Keaton has his workshop. Unfortunately I was not able to see the majestic mountains of the Cascades that lie to the west of where we were headed. In clear weather, one has a stunning view of Mt. Bachelor and the two Sisters Mountains. Between 9000-10,000feet, these offer quite a view I'm told! Arriving into Sisters, Keaton parked and we went into the clock shop, where he has his workshop. The owners of the clockshop, Ed & Kathi Beacham kindly showed me around, Ed makes clocks from scratch, I'd say he is a rare bird too! Their shop was full of long case clocks as well as many wall clocks adorning almost the entire wall space. We walked over to the Sisters Coffee shop, procured some fresh Earl Grey tea and walked back to start my day of education and learning. Never have I been able to spend a whole day observing a master watchmaker in his element.

Black polishing a screw

Keaton has his desk with computer, watchmaking bench and various other tables with a variety of tools and machines in a 1/4 of the upstairs gallery of the Beacham Clock company. Downstairs in a separate room off to the back, is the dirty work area, where a large lathe, a couple of basic CNC machines and the ultrasonic cleaning machine reside. Keaton recently gained a colleague, Andrew, another Wostep trained watchmaker to share some of the restoration work and take on more of the servicing of modern watches, while Keaton dedicated more and more of his time to creating his own watches. Andrew's bench is downstairs in the back of the main room, he was restoring a lovely old Glashütte pocketwatch, an Assman if I'm not mistaken. 

We then headed back upstairs where Keaton explained what each tool was for and when he typically used it in the manufacturing of parts and in some cases for the hand finishing. He also has an optical measuring projector, an immensely useful and important tool for making sure the parts are the correct shape and dimension. The watchmakers go to lathe, the Schaublin 60 was in it's place nearby another lathe, the Boley. These are high precision lathes, one finds in all workshops of watchmakers worth their salt! Keaton has designed and is in the process of making his next watch also. He showed me in the CAD program, the details of this lovely watch. I cannot reveal what it is yet, but it will give him the recognition due his level of watchmaking mastery. It will also give more of an insight into his inspiration from the masters of old, in particular, one fellow responsible for some very famous watches of extremely high chronometry and beautifully made. A CAD print out of the caliber sits front and center on the wall above his bench. Over the course of a couple of hours, which by the way flew by, only to be reminded of the passage of time by the cacophony of chiming clocks every hour, quarter and half hour, that occur in a clock shop. Keaton is used to it, I on the other hand almost jumped when the top of the hour was reached! I didn't count all the clocks, but I think a conservative estimate, is 100, with at least 20 of them being tall case chiming grandfather type clocks! Keaton showed me how he blues his hands and screws by heat. A controlled electric heater provides a more consistent heat source than the traditional paraffin lamp. It is still a highly skilled procedure and takes many hours of practice to get the desired shade of blue correct. Too long and the piece has to be polished again, cleaned with very strong nasty chemicals, prior to heat blueing.

The jig for flat polishing screws

Here’s the screw within!

He showed me his jigs for flat polishing screws, which is done with a very fine diamond paste and a flat ceramic plate. I had an opportunity to try my hand at this time consuming exercise, being as careful as possible, I still managed to tip the jig and cause one side of the screw to have a slight bevel. It was no longer flat polished!!! So began the work to flatten it perfectly, which one can see in reflected light. Talk about labor intensive work for a small little screw. Knowing how many screws are in a basic watch, one quickly comes to appreciate what it takes to make a hand finished watch. As much as I sometimes think how I might well have enjoyed being a watchmaker, the reality of working with such small things on a daily basis might be more a romantic idea than the reality I experienced polishing a screw on Keaton's bench!

He revealed the four calibers he is currently working on for the watches he has sold, they were in varying stages of completion. Months away would be my educated guess. Of course these watches will be finished to his high level and those lucky four chaps will get to enjoy the fruits of his labor, in beautiful piece of micro-mechanical artistry that Keaton will have poured his heart and soul into. This is one of the main attractions for me when working with an Independent Watchmaker and to me the most compelling aspect of the process, getting to see the final watch being created over time, knowing the watchmaker toiled over this for weeks or months, in order to produce a timekeeping element that one can wear and enjoy on a daily basis.

We then popped across the road for lunch, which gave me a break from tiny watch parts. Again a reminder of why I'm to let the experts like Keaton and his ilk, do the work, whilst I appreciate it!

One of the factors that allows for a slightly easier ability to construct his own watches in Sisters, is the amazing proximity to one of the two CNC wire erosion/cutting machines in Oregon operated by individuals that do custom work for clients. Of all the places, the Sisters airport, has a fellow working away in a small workshop, creating amazingly high precision metal objects, mostly for the medical industry he revealed. Keaton befriended him, and now has a way to get several of his tiny parts produced about a mile from his workshop. It is also the facility that will allow for him to finally make his own cases. This is a huge benefit for him and I'm excited to see my watch returned to Oregon in due course to be retro-fitted with his case. Currently it resides in an off the shelf Fricker case sourced out of Germany.

We spent 20 minutes or so chatting with Keaton's friend, I showed him my watch and a lovely Speake-Marin I was considering buying. His appreciation was exciting to see. Headed back to the workshop, to finish up the day prior to joining Keaton's parents for dinner. Back at his home, I was given a little insight into another of his loves, music. In fact at one point earlier on prior to his watchmaking path, he was seriously considering the career of a session musician. Plugging in his electric guitar, he showed me some of his obvious talent, and as a lover of live music, I was enthralled.

Had he not decided to be a watchmaker, this was his alternate professional option!

The following day, we enjoyed a very good breakfast, discussed more aspects of our mutual business needs and wants, then headed out to the Metolius River to see the stunning scenery and one of the places Keaton goes to recharge his creative batteries. I can see why it works for him to be here in central Oregon. It is an absolutely lovely part of the world with a very good fly fishing river, that allows for this man to create his watches.

Metolius river.