General

Watch industry in flux...

As we enter a brave new world in the big wide world of watches, new ground is being broken at the same time personnel are being let go of in the Swiss watch industry, as the haemorrhaging of cash has NOT  been stemmed. I'm not on my high horse crowing "I told you so", however the economic shift that has occurred in the past 9 months, has accelerated the change that had to occur. Too many "mechanical" watches were being produced for the market to absorb, retailers were being forced to take more inventory; "You must have a good representation of the brand" & "Replenish what you've sold" was the mantra for the past 5-8 years. Well all that came home to roost, wonderful deals are available to those with cash as retailers and the watch companies are forced to "move" product, gone are the days of holding the line on "No discounting Patek or Rolex". I know of a retailer recently forced to take back a couple of Patek's sold at "No discount" because the client found them for considerably less money elsewhere.

What does this mean for the aficionado? How does it effect the collector?

Well for starters, great opportunities to acquire rare pieces are coming about. Many pieces that in good times would never be offered for sale, are coming out of the woodwork. Less competition for those few new "Art pieces", meaning the Dufours, Voutilainens, etc. will be available.

The new watches that are relatively common, meaning many have been made and more are on the way, will be available at big savings to the tune of 20-30% less than they were a year ago. What a bonanza for those with cash.

Another aspect is, that while many a collector I know sell or trade existing items to help afford a new piece, they will find the value of what they have to "trade-in" is also not going to be in the range they previously thought. This will come as a shock to many, who had banked on the value of second-hand pieces remaining strong in "desirable pieces", and the expectations will have to be re-adjusted if they are to continue playing in the fine watch world with this game plan. I think it is a great way to afford the new compelling pieces, one can only wear so many watches...Having said that, if you don't need to sell, don't. This is very much a buyers market, and like real estate or anything of value, buyers are in the driving seat when it comes to negotiating prices.

As Bob Dylan sang, "Times are a changing" and this will be seen more and more in the coming months as watch companies cut back production, retailers disappear, and collectors re-adjust their buying patterns. The value proposition and buying experience will by key and IMHO will separate those successful companies from those that will inevitably suffer and go the way of the Dodo. There is only so much money to go around, despite what the politicians all over the world do to "stimulate" the economies. I understand in Switzerland, the govt. under some sort of scheme, was "supporting" the watch industry by helping out companies with money to keep employees on at reduced working hours, un-employed Swiss watch industry workers are not good for the country's image!!! However this madness can only go on for so long before the money runs out and the reality of the bigger picture dawns. There are too many watches being produced for the market. This is why in recent days stories of 30-35% workforce cuts are beginning to filter out of Switzerland. Yesterday in speaking with watch industry colleagues, one number that stood out, 50% reduction is production capacity of one high end old traditional watch company that has been around a couple of hundred years!

I do see good times ahead for those watchmakers producing truly compelling watches of high quality, that cannot be considered commodity items, which is what the industry should be about rather than the way it seems to have gone these last few years in the over heated market place. A compelling reason should be made by each watchmaker/company as to why one should spend their hard earned money on their products rather than someone else's. I'm here to herald those Independent Watchmakers that don't have the budgets to splash images all over the place, but rather endow a collector with a timepiece of value with long lasting quality and a lifetime of enjoyment as the world of Independent Watchmaking is revealed over time!

Independent Watchmaking, a compelling subject...

Independent watchmaking and the watchmakers who practice this art...

Why is it compelling? What is it that makes these precious few world class watchmakers’ hard work so interesting to watch collectors and aficionados of the horological art forms? As a short essay, I’ll make a case for why. As a student of horology for many years at this point, I have been exposed through those last 23 years to much the watchmaking world has to offer. I have bought and sold over $5million worth of timepieces, from $100 vintage pieces to well over $100k complicated pieces. So I know I have a perspective that allows me to comment from a position of experience on this subject. Having visited several of the larger manufactures, spent the past 8 years attending the Basel and SIHH trade fairs and interacted with hundreds of collectors, I offer the following:

Independent Watchmaking is akin to Enzo Ferrari starting his car business. He was obviously a passionate man who believed in what he was doing, and knew he could contribute to the advancement of motor car racing, with the amazing development of his engines and then the car as a whole.

Not “Another car analogy” you might say! Let me elaborate, there are certainly similarities, an engine/movement, The exterior design of a car/a watch case, the fit and finish of the car/finish on a watch & movement. I think you would agree that the engine/movement is almost certainly the most important part. Here is where Enzo excelled. Today’s Independent Watchmakers do the same, I submit. Whether or not an in-house movement has been realized by the watchmaker, it is there as an important goal. Many of these fellows have got there, and we are graced with several lovely, well built machines that will run for many years to come, with proper maintenance I should mention. How is it that the finished piece encapsulating the movement is so lovely? Here lies the genius of the Independent watchmaker, a brilliant “mechanic” on one hand, while having the aesthetic gene covered too, he is a “sculptor” or ‘designer’. This is rare to have both aptitudes in one creative person, usually it is either/or. Now Ferrari had those great Italian design houses, Pininfarina etc. etc. Well at the end of the day, Ferrari got to say yay or nay, he certainly had a sense of design and style, he was Italian after all!

One might say an Independent watchmaker is a rarer breed, “Doing it all” so to speak. He is not what the watch collectors are used to experiencing with the big brands. This is what makes this small horological field so compelling for me and as I travel around, for many other passionate watch collectors. It certainly is not for everyone, the cost of admission is high, but then it should be. These are rare pieces of art. This is not some sort of mass produced product that is fashionable currently, but rather, a timeless micro-mechanical art form, created by an artisan skilled in his/her field, well practiced and passionate about his/her chosen path. How often can one realize a personal relationship with a world class watchmaker? Here is another reason for going Independent.

Go with your gut instinct on this type of acquisition, don’t worry what others might say, buy what you like and get an understanding of why the particular watchmaker made this watch, what does his/her design say about him/her, etc. etc. That old saying comes to mind, “The mind once expanded never goes back”

This is the Independent Watchmaking path, take it, it will lead one into areas of great “eye opening” and expansion of he mind!

I'm happy to discuss this more on a personal level, my contact info is over on the right hand side of this, in bright blue!

Cheers,

Tim